Jul 212007

Hello Everybody!

When I left off, I was about about to see a soccer game in Bangkok… I’ll continue from there! The soccer game was a blast! It rained the whole time and I left the stadium drenched to the bone, but my seat was fantastic! Australia beat Thailand 4-0 which was a little sad for all the Thailanders around me, but I was close to Thailands goal in the second half and got to see 3 of the 4 goals in great closeup detail. What a rush!

The next morning I left for Cambodia, on what would turn out to be the ride from hell. The companies working the transportation did everything in their power to take the passengers money, often outright lieing about various things. I’m sad I fell for some of it, but its hard not to when you don’t know anything about the country you are entering! The trip lasted about 5 hours longer than it was supposed to as well, making it difficult to not stay at the hotel they tried to force on us. All in all, I left my hotel at 7:30am and arrived in Siem Riep, Cambodia, at 11:40 PM… ouch. The road between Poipet, the Cambodian border town, and Siem Riep, the Ankor town is literally the worst major road in the world. The pictures I took hardly did it justice. I think I’ll do better describing it in person. So anyways, lessons learned here: Get yourself to Cambodia. Don’t charter with a travel company.

Cambodia itself was fantastic! The ruins are countless, and all amazing. I watched every sunset, and forced myself awake for 2 of my 3 sunrises because they were just tooo good to miss! The hard thing to see was the effect of all this tourism on the people. Outside of every temple is an army of children trying t  sell you the same stack of things you don’t want, and everytime you say no it almost seems like they take it personally. I learned that the kids only go to school 4 hours a day, in shifts, so there are always children to sell things at the ruins. The older merchants aren’t any better. The drivers everywhere harass you nonstop about rides, the women yell and fight over the right to sell you a bottle of water, and it all adds u  to one big headache. The only way to overcome it really is to block it all out. Its a shame, but the ruins made it worth it. One thing I really enjoyed was hiring a driver for the day. At about 8 dollars for a whole day, my driver zipped me about on the back of his motorcycle to anywhere my heart desired. He knew all the ruins and planned out oy itinerary perfectly. Afer the second day though, I ended up sharing a motorcyle dranw carriage (seriously) with 2 people I had met at the border and continued to meet throughout the first and second day, until we decided to join forces. In summary, the detail of the ruins was spectacular, the scale immense, and the heat harsh. My pictures will do the place a lot more justice I assure you.

A few other activities caught my eye as well: The floating village of Tonle Sap was quite interesting… Everything you can imagine, floating on the water. Fish farms, schools, houses, bars, churches, stores, resteraunts, and even a pool hall were to be found floating in that river town. It was fascinating to see that, even out on a river with no electricity, every house had a TV (run on a car battery). In Siem Riep proper, I joined my two companions in giving blood at a children’s hospital. They were very happy about foreigners coming in to donate, and it was perfectly sanitary and acceptable (so don’t worry)!

I left Saturday morning, and annoyed my hotel to pieces by refusing the return bus trip (they were one of the organizers of it). Instead, I booked a car with a friend of the motorcycle carriage driver belonging to my two companions. For $25, he drove me to the Cambodian border in 3 hours. Compare that to the 9.5 hours it took the bus from the Cambodian border (that cost about $15-18ish), and you can see how I learned that sometimes spending a little bit more goes quite a long way. In Thailand, I booked a bus to Bangkok hoping to make the Vietnam vs Iraq soccer game (Not a game you’d see held in the U.S.A. I suspect), but the bus I booked had a few problems. It wasn’t an express bus, and somehow my backpack got placed on the wrong bus. Uh-oh. I ended up waiting at the busstation for another 2 hours until my bag showed up, and I had missed the soccer game. Considering my situation, I made a quick decision, and hopped on a VIP bus to Chiang Mai. VIP busses are great, they are hugely comfortable, include pillows an  blankets and seats that recline extensively. So rather than staying in Bangkok for a few days, I found myself arriving in one of Thailand’s northernmost towns at 5am. Phew. I think I’m going to settle down for a few days…

In fact, I have a mighty plan. There’s an Elephant sanctuary about 2 hours away. Not only do they harbour and care for abused elephants, they offer free veterinary care to all Elephants, give tours and educate tourists, enrich the elephants with things like music and painting (I may have mentioned my desire to see this place in person before), among other activities. Well, I learned a bit more about them and I think I’m going to spend the rest of my time and money there. They offer a ‘mahout training program,’ which is in essence a sampling of what it is like to be an elephant mahout, or trainer. He is the guy who lives with and cares for the elephant from birth. So, for as many days as you like, they will teach you how to talk with elephants, ride them bareback, lead them around, bathe them, play with them, and everything else involved in the captive elephant life. I’m thinking of going and experiencing this for 9 or 10 days. Its expensive, enough so that it will burn through the rest of my money, but I’ve thought a while about it, and I don’t mind trading a few weeks travel for this experience. It’s going to be worth it!

So I may be coming back rather soon, in less than 3 weeks probably, but I don’t mind one bit. I’ve done so much and seen so much in the past 2 months, it’s been incredible! I’m very excited about this intimate elephant experience, perhaps it will be the inspiration I need for the future? We’ll see!

Jul 142007

Hey everyone!

Sorry if you’ve written me and I haven’t gotten back to you! I didn’t realize how tough it would be to write and respond to everyone! I’ve been keeping busy though, let me tell you about it:

So I think when I left off, I was in Bangkok and was going to depart for Penang, in Malaysia. Had I planned ahead a little bit, I think I would have gone to visit more of Malaysia, because Penang kinda sucked, but the rest of the country looked awesome. Fun was still to be had in Penang however: We spent one night in a fishing village called Teluk Bahang, and hiked through a nearby national park to reach Monkey Beach, my first tropical beach! Hurray! It wasn’t spectacular or anything, but swimming in a warm ocean contrasted greatly with my experiences in the northern California pacific. We went to the local night market that evening where the food was fantastic and cheap! For about $3 I bought a massive dinner. It’s definitely nice to see the positive effects of relaxed food regulations for once instead of the drawbacks. After getting a new tourist visa for Thailand, I returned with my coworkers to Bangkok and spent the 4th of July watching Die Hard 4 on the big screen here. I figured Bruce Willis and explosions were the closest I could get to fireworks and celebrating the USA.

The next day I said goodbye to my coworkers for the last time and hopped on a train to Ayuthaya, a city built on the ruins of a much older city. I took a train, and splurged on a room with AC, satellite TV, and a hot shower. Splurging in this country however involves paying $10 a night instead of $5, so its not really the biggest problem! I got to catch up on the Copa America with the TV in the morning, and in the afternoon I explored the city. Ruins are cool, very ruiny. I took some neat pictures, saw the famous Buddha head in the tree, and met two very nice girls from Holland who were doing the same. We ended up chatting for the rest of the night, and they asked me to join them on their trip to Khao Yai National Park. They suspected my training as a Zoologist and my previous employment would be useful… they were right!

So the following day, we took a train to Pak Chong, the city nearest the national park, and found a lodge with a swimming pool that gave guided tours of the park. We signed up for the guided tour, and it was seriously one of the best tours ever. The guide and I got along great, we had the same camera and we traded lenses often so I could take long distance shots and he could take close up shots. He found all the monkeys and birds, I found all the frogs, lizards, and bugs (I would have made my Herpetology teacher proud). To the group of people I was with I ended up being a second tour guide, I answered lots of questions about ecology and life webs and the behavior of many of the nearby animals. It was fun to employ my degree, I’m not used to it, most of the time I’m surrounded by people who know as much as I do! The coolest animal sighting for me were the two Draco Lizards I saw out of the corner of my eye on a tree. They are basically little lizards with wings on the sides of their body. Attached to the rib cage, the bones bend outwards and the lizards can glide from tree to tree. I was fortunate enough to see one of the lizards fly and practically died of nerdy zoologist joy. It was like watching an Animal Planet special right before my eyes. The rest of the tour involved fantastic views (almost unrealistic seeming), swimming in a gorgeous waterfall (apprently made famous in the movie The Beach, I haven’t seen it), and learning to hold an enormous scorpion (you’ll see). We spent the night in rented tents in Khao Yai, and I ran all over the place in the night finding different kinds of frogs and toads. It was heaven.

The next day we decided to hitch hike out of the park, stay and the previous lodge one more night, then move on to the island of Ko Chang. Interestingly enough, my sense of direction failed me for the first time in a while, and i hitchhiked us the wrong direction, which we discovered on exiting the wrong entrance to the park! Whoops! Luckily for us, the Thai people (all 7 of them) were incredibly friendly. They’d already taken us to a waterfall on our way out of the park, and I’d given first aid to one of them who had a nasty burn on his hand (thanks for the first aid kit Shane!), so they were very interested in helping us out. They didn’t speak any English, so I pulled out the road map of Thailand my mom gave me, and proceeded to discover that the Thai people were headed to Catchanaburi, a city only 1 hour away from Trat, the port city leading to the island of Ko Chang. So, rather than head back through the park to the resort, we decided to head towards Ko Chang with our nice drivers. So 5 hours were spent laying down in the bed of their pickup truck watching the Thailand sky fly by. They took us to lunch too, which was totally fun because we had a massive language barrier. They ordered for us and everything was delicious. As we figured out, all 7 of them worked for LG, the electronics company, and were on holiday in the National Park. Using gestures and a map I was able to discern that they thought Japan was going to win the Asian Soccer Championship. In the end we made it to the bus station of Catchanaburi rather late in the day, but a whole day sooner than we expected. We took a bus to Trat, and the next morning hopped on a Ferry to Ko Chang, but not before I stopped at a bookstore run by a Frenchman and bought a copy of The Count of Monte Cristo. Cassidy would be proud.

Ko Chang was an interesting place. It was a much nicer island than Penang. Cleaner, clearer, better beaches, and very catered to backpacky tourists. We rented beach bungalows and had breakfast, lunch and dinner on the beach every day. We took a snorkeling tour in the Gulf of Thailand, and I saw real, natural coral for the first time in my life. Swimming with fishies is fun. Manik, one of the dutch girls, found a Leopard Gecko in her bungalo that was enormous. I failed to catch it several times, it was very fast. Burgers in Thailand are quite bizarre I’ve discovered, I’m not sure I like them. As a group, Manik, Eres (the other Dutch girl), and I decided that all resteraunts were to be rated on the amount of dessert they had avaialable compared to the amount they offered on their menu. Most resteraunts failed, and considerably low marks were given to the resteraunt that offered me Chicken Pie over the unavailable Apple and Blueberry pies. The best resteraunt was the Irish pub (as is usually the case anywhere), which had an amazing apple crumble, and pancakes with coconut milk and mango. Yummy!

After 4 days in Ko Chang we returned to Bankgok. Manik had to return to Indonesia, Eres left for Ko Samui, and I’m waiting ’till Monday when I have tickets to see the Thailand soccer team play the Australian soccer team in the AFC Asian Cup. It should be good! Until then I guess I’ll let my sunburn heal, send out emails, watch Harry Potter, and try to survive. I bought some books, Watership Down and Gulliver’s Travels. I thought Gulliver’s travels would be appropriate, and I’ve never read Watership down. Books are priceless here on trains and busses! Bangkok is much to big of a big city for my tastes I think hehe. After’the game on Monday I’m thinking I’ll go to Cambodia and see Ankor Wat, or goto Chiang Mai to see Elepants. I haven’t decided yet. both things are going to happen, the only thing I don’t know about is the order.

So in conclusion, goto this link for pictures:
http://www.kylekyle.com/pics/thailand

(Someday this will be in the gallery instead)

They aren’t sorted, I haven’t had time, but they should be enjoyable!

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